Foodie joints : Lisbon edition
A hubbub of long-standing greats and fresh new bites.
Lisbon is one of those cities that retains it’s trusted, decade-old gems, whilst also playing home to a bunch of revolutionary new openings. With each new opening, the foodie offering diversifies further, creating a food culture to envy the likes of Copenhagen and Stockholm.
Each pocket of the city has heaps of new places to sample, but the latest area to play home to some of the more creative offerings is Penha de França, where you’ll find two of my favourites listed below.
Penha de França is a little further North and away from the real splurge of tourists. It sits on one of the seven hills, and has some of the most juicy viewpoints across the city not yet ventured by non-locals. It’s restaurants are simplistic and casual, but its the stories behind them and what’s on the menu that gives them a certain edge.
It’s actually a hard task trying to whittle down the favourites, but here are five of my most memorable food experiences in Lisbon:
01 - Taberna da Rua das Flores
Chiado
This is the one place I try to return to every single time, without fail. It’s a no-reservation kind of place (quite typical of such establishments in Lisbon), so only the committed few will ever reap the rewards of waiting out a table at Taberna da Rua das Flores. With a blackboard style menu that’s updated daily, prepare yourself for a tough time choosing. The space itself is small yet spacious, and carrying all the charm of an old Portuguese tavern. An all-time gem.
02 - A Cevicheria
Príncipe Real
I will always remember the first time I walked past A Cevicheria, catching a glimpse of the iconic octopus hanging from the ceiling as I peered through a swarm of foodies gathered at it’s front, sipping on sours between lively chatter as they awaited their table. That was in 2018. Finally when visiting with family in 2022, we got a table. Despite being sat outside during an evening of unusual flash floods and hammering rain in the city, it truly is one of the best food experiences I’ve ever encountered. Peruvian style ceviche, accompanied by pisco sours and the most jolly serving staff (even when battling the rain and carrying food under umbrellas) - it really can’t be beaten.
03 - Boi Cavalo
Alfama
For something a little less conventional, Boi Cavalo is a place to send your taste buds spiralling. The menu is ever-changing as the chef (and owner) experiments with the most imaginative flavour combinations, making each dish a real surprise. The place itself is super relaxed, cosy and casual, often booked out by revisiting locals. So it’s worth booking in advance, especially for weekend nights.
04 - A'paranza
Penha de França
Now we enter the gems of Penha da França, starting with this family-run Neapolitan joint. The menu is mostly comprised of pasta and freshly caught Portuguese fish, delivered in an array of meticulously crafted dishes and Mediterranean flavours. Having fought to open in 2020, A'paranza established itself amongst locals with its aperitivo bites, and what has been dubbed the best pasta in Lisbon.
05 - Tati
Penha de França
If its natural wine list doesn’t immediately draw you in, then the menu will no doubt tickle your fancy. Penda de França is actually it’s second home, having moved away from the busy Cais do Sodré waterfront area - a place perhaps a little too mainstream for what Tati brought to the table. The creativity in Tati’s offerings are revolutionary, with the menu refreshed weekly to flex to the seasons and freshest ingredients. And if empanadas feature on the menu during your visit, they cannot be overlooked.
Bairro do Avillez and Boubou’s are two that don’t quite make this shortlist but that I’ve returned to time and again for guaranteed goodness (and delicious cocktails).
Before you go….
I’d love for you to add to the comments if you have any additions, updates or thoughts to keep this list fresh and relevant. Thank you.